Fiji was going off yesterday! 15ft+ at outside Cloudbreak, 8ft+ at Restaurants and a whole lot of energy running through the ocean. The swell didn’t quite reach the levels of last June’s mammoth swell during the Volcom Fiji Pro and the direction and winds might have been off slightly for things to really light up. There was still some huge waves breaking outside at Cloudbreak and some were so wide you could drive a truck through them. There was only a handful of guys surfing and a massive hat’s off to all of them.
On the inside, more protected, reef at Tavarua, Restuarants was serving up 6-8ft+ grinders all day. If you’ve ever surfed Restaurants you’ll know that at that size the perfection is skin deep. The reality is that Restaurants is a heaving take off followed by a screaming barrel all the way to the channe and a good mix of lumps and bumps from the hefty currents that run through the channel. Make the drop and set a good line and it’s the barrel of your life; mess up and you’re going to hit the reef. Either way it’s a photographers dream.
Catch you tomorrow.